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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.